DB says: I'll head back to DX 5293 for some final cleaning up at some stage, but today, in my first visit to the train room in a week, I thought I might jump into something different. The two obvious candidates are building another module to keep Moana company, or building out that Tranz Alpine passenger train with some AO cars.
I figured I'd better get on to the latter given the real Tranz is getting replaced this year. Don't know why - the guts of those gross fenster 56 foot cars are only about 70 years old...
I want to have 8 of these puppies in my train so I'm going to cast them in resin. I think. I also think, that if that goes to plan, I'll need an end piece (2x required per car of course), and a central tubular section, and probably some underbits. Maybe. Perhaps with some stuck-on big windows. We'll just see how we go shall we?
I began by cutting some end sections out of plasticard, and joining them with some blocky 'doors'. This isn't going to be a terribly sophisticated model, as I'm relying on the 'whole train being more impressive than the sum of the parts' effect, so I somewhat embarassingly stuck-on squares of plastic to represent the door windows, which I'll later paint a dark gray colour rather than cutting out window holes. There'll also be no end doors either, as the corridor connections will hide those except for one at the far end of the train. I'm a bit red-faced over all this, but as long as you promise not to tell anyone, who's going to know?
The roof-end was then carved out of thick styrene block, stuck on top of the other assembly, and some time was expended sanding and filling this to shape as the real thing is quite complicated. While doing this I remembered an offer to buy some bits off Trackgang, but I figured the whitemetal roof and sides would take so much mucking around to fit the big windows, that it was probably easier to build it from scratch. An hour of sanding later and not even having proper windows to show for it, I'm kicking myself...
As I write this (post-picture), the guts of the central section's roof is pretty much done as well - being balsa wood covered in paper.
This may be the only modeling blog in the world where one is led down a meandering path that passes rapid prototyped, laser etched, fancy-dancy models one week and balsa wood and paper ones with no windows the next. Yes folks, there's something in NZ120 for everyone.
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
12 comments:
I love this site!
and your last paragraph says why!
Question: what do you use for gap filler? or do you use the way of the Inca's and have advanced your modelling prowess to the upper echelons and leave no gaps unturned...
Nice ends too (the model!)
P.S and can you work all night on a drink o' rum?
As long as you don't mix up what is meant to be Rapid Prototyping and what is paper and balsa. I'm not sure how our Type 18 bogies would go in paper...
I'm fairly sure I have the old side mould at home (from the ones I made for Gleen many moons ago) if you want me to send it out (for a sizable fee I'll deliver it in person).
could i put up my hand for some ends, as i've got the sides done in clear plastic, vacuum foarmed, and need ends.
forgot to say that i cut vinyl stick on sides. i've also been playing around with printed vinyl sides.
To Whom It May Concern:
I am writing today to officially express my interest in a placement on the "Creative Blog Title Design" block course during the next induction....
Yours sincerely
Clou Liss.
Some good ideas DB!
How about thin mirror glass for windows?
RumSoakedMouse: I use the nicely carcinogenic Testor's modeling putty which sets fairly quickly and has a decent finish for scraping and sanding down. The white colour makes it easy to paint too. It's a bit sandy and lumpy at times though - Squadron makes a bunch of them that i'd like to try next. My prevous approach was to dump as much paint on models as possible to fill gaps.
GFG: Your mirror idea is interesting - i do want some reflections from those windows. Wonder how thin and how finely they could be cut.
Can-o-magic: paper mache bogies run terribly unless you use pinpoint bearings
Graham: spare ends might indeed be possible.
Mr Clou Les: Check this out: http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/7909561.stm
To apply for the next Blog Titling course, please write your bank account details and mother's maiden name on a gold ingot and send to the following address...
p.s. stick on sides would be excellent. I'd thought of using decals on clear sides if I needed small-window cars, but with thin vinyl you'd get more of a 3d effect.
I'd be tempted to look at off-cuts of the tinting film used on car windows. You can get this in various shades, including some with a reflective finish. Stuck to clear styrene it may well be an easier option than mirror glass.
Ding. We may have a winner.
Post a Comment