To start the week

I've got the paint out and splashed some on the H. I tried photographing it, but black is hard to do well and I'm not in a position to weather the top yet.

And yes it is painted black. Must sort the mech out at some point. Maybe on my long weekend.

So, how do we get it to move then?

 Right, Peter has supplied us with a lid, so how do we get it to run. I'm not a fan of the Farish 0-6-0 method (for a variety of reasons). So, whats my plan?

Based on an extensive collection of worthless information that resides in my fat head (I'm quite popular at morning tea for the daily newspaper quiz), I have discovered that the Atlas GP XX bogies have the correct wheelbase (17mm). On top of this all the gear meshing is done for us. The photo does not convey this very well due to parallax issues. You will just have to trust me its right.

 The wheels at 6mm are a wee bit on the small size. However, a simple swap with SD-70 wheels (I think they are from Kato) and it looks a bit better. I've also removed part of the bogie side frames while keeping enough to hold everything together

OK its not quite that simple. You have to swap the 1/2 wheel sets on the gear muffs as the gears are offset on the Atlas drive. I also purchased some worm drives. I'll knock the shaft outs and mount it directly on the motor. The invoice tells me that the princely sum for this so far is $7.20 US (not counting the optional SD-70 wheels)
So, how does it fit onto the top?

 OK, so at the moment the wheels are a bit wide and outside the inner side of the cylinders. For some odd reason I'm not overly bothered about this at the moment. Maybe my inner finescaler has decided to cut his losses on this project already. The frames will be plasticard. I'll find a spoked wheel from somewhere (I wonder if Trackgang sells them?) for the trailing axle. And what about a motor?
In the boxes from Long ago, I found what I recall to be an open frame lashima 916. There are a few motors that seem to all be the same size made by other people as well.
 Comparing the motor to the plan, it was obvious that it would not fit in the side tanks, however if I cut some unnecessary plastic I could angle it slightly and it would fit nicely

The worm gear was hammered of the axle it came on (very delicately you understand) and then pushed back on. I also cut the back drive shaft off so that it would not intrude into the cab.
If I was planning ahead I would go for a Nigel Lawson 8mm can motor instead, as this would fit.

On to the top and some alterations were then made based on discussions with the peanut gallery. I added larger air tanks. The ones on the model just felt a bit small. Increasing to 2.5mm gave a better 'heft'. I've also removed the roof hatch and replaced it with part of an etched ladder, to which I'll add a lid. I have had a go at cutting the hole in the roof under the hatch, but this has been less than successful so far. I need to find a tube with a diameter of 3.5mm for the tank filler hatches.

And during a fact finding trip last weekend to get more detail photos....

What can it be?

I arrived home tonight to a package.

 I wonder whats inside?

'Ooooooooo'

We had been discussing some modifications with Peter in the last couple of weeks and these have paid off.The funnel really looks the part now.
( Its still quite oily and smells of almonds. Is the oil normal? Has anyone else suffered from this?)

Giving in

Well, I have finally buckled under mounting pressure (from my subconscious) and purchased an NZ120 scale H loco in FUD. Total cost including postage was $75NZ, which I don't think is too bad for this model. Its all quite/dangerously simple with Paypal. The order is then sent into the printing que. Last night I received this 'informative' e-mail.

>Exciting update! We're in the midst of creating your order in our factory of the future.

 Hmm, OK guys, a bit too much of the corporate kol aid this morning I think.

>Once our robots have finished creating your order and we make sure it's perfect....

I think this is a relative term.

The most amusing thing at the end is the warning.

>Warning: Please note that the 3D printed products are intended for decorative purposes. They are >not suited to be used as toys or to be given to underage children. The products should not come in >contact with electricity and be kept away from heat. Our materials, except for 3D printed glazed >ceramics, are not food safe.

OK, so at least I'm not planning to eat it.

(BTW acrylic is an excellent insulator with a melting point of about 90C so unless the chip or motor bursts into flame it should be fine).

I must now pay the Atlas website a visit to get the motorising bits.