SI NZ120ers: Chch Train Show next year

 DB wonders out loud (and not having thought this through):

I can't be the only dude sitting at home with no layout but would love to run some trains... 

Are there many active (or potentially activate-able) NZ120 modellers in the South Island?

The reason for asking is that Christchurch has a pretty big train show each year, and unfortunately, as we don't have a Trackgang layout handy down here*, maybe we could make an NZ120 modular layout for me to run my big coal train on? 

Obviously its too late for 2024's show coming up in October, but if there was any interest, it's something we could target for next year.

This would give interested folks a year to knock a module together and scenic it, and in 8-9 months, if enough progress has been made, we could make a plan for how it could be physically set up, and then apply for a spot on the floor.

The October 2025 show gives some impetus to do that on a relatively grand scale, and a deadline to work towards to make it happen. 

My thoughts are a layout with modules based on the Fremo120 standards for new builds, although I see no reason why MMW modules and almost any other existing module couldn't be attached in some temporary but reliable fashion** to join in:  

• DCC. Possibly with a straight DC operable branch hanging off Studholme if folks want to run DC trains) Or vice versa if DC participants outnumber DCC folks.
• 1200mm track height from floor
• Assuming there are not enough curves to make a traditional 'loop' roundy-round, we could have a long string of modules with a balloon loop at each end. I've started planning and procurement for one balloon end.
• All NZR eras/periods/epochs, diesel/steam/electric and geographies would be welcome.
• No TGV's please - slow to medium speed operation to... minimise derailments, respect other people's rolling stock and modules, and for a better look. 

During show hours, the layout is "for the punters not the operators" ...i.e. 

• Layout is set up and tested before the doors open rather than spending the first two hours having the public watch you building things and trying to figure out how to get a train to run. 
• During the open hours, there's always stuff going on, ideally a variety of different trains, train crossings, maybe the branchline is working or shunting, but there is always something running for the paying public to look at. 
• Minimal fuddling around (i.e. if there is any shunting, it shouldn't tie up the mainline).
• Using the most reliable stock (things that derail or don't run well get fixed, get cleaned or get relegated to the sidings)
• We fix problems and derailments quickly and get things moving again.
• It should be realistic, impressive, and show off NZ120's potential so more people join us for the next show. 

Then:

• We can play with the derailing trains, complicated shunting with timetables and car cards after the punters have left. Or on the branchline if there is one and there are plenty of operators. But ideally over a few ciders after the doors close. 

So ... I have Studholme slowly under construction (3.6m) and have plans for two more modules to match it (one plain Canterbury Plains flatland, and a similar one with a low bridge which might be a curved module). So that could be 6m of modules to start with. Plus my balloon loop.

Ideally there would be another few "single track open mainline" modules. Maybe some have a culvert, or a road crossing, or a curve, or a bridge, or a tunnel or a cutting or an embankment. There might be a few 45 or 90 degree curve modules for variety (or if we end up growing too long for the space available). 

Perhaps someone might build two or three of these as a Module Set for scenic consistency. 

And the other balloon loop. 

If we had enough "open space mainline modules", perhaps someone might make another small passing loop station (Staircase, Seacliff, Tawhai, Kekerengu...). 

Sooooooo...... Is anybody out there interested in coming to Chch in 2025 to run some trains on a decent sized layout and have a few laughs?   And would you be interested in building a module or more?  

Studholme 2 - Bored.

In which DB acquires a table saw.

I've always wanted such a weapon, and there have been a few outstanding jobs around the house for a few years that could use a bit more precision... but who of the hack-carpenters amongst us can justify spending a grand on such a luxury. So when Mitre 10 had a Black and Decker one on sale (including legs) for $299 recently, I snuck out and got one. 

Which is a good job, as I didn't really know how else I was going to cut up bits of wood into modules now that I'm in the mood to make something. And I've already ticked off some of those outstanding projects around the house too.

Mr Druff warned against using the old, warped, treated plywood in my stash, but our local hardware stores don't stock 18mm ply. After a few weeks of anxious pondering I found myself at Bunnings in Dunedin and picked up a small sheet of 18mm that fitted in the boot of the car, along with a few other little pieces of microlumber. 

After another anxious week, I mustered the courage to try out the saw on the plywood. Wow. What a revelation. So easy. Square, flat, strong, straight, consistently sized and uniformly rectangular module pieces. the 'spacers and ends' are 38cm wide, plus two 1cm sides to make 40cm wide modules.

Glued together with some proper wood glue (I normally use the stuff from the $2 store that falls apart after a few minutes. This post not sponsored by Selleys wood glue. 

And with countersunk screws. Mr Birch, our well-named woodwork teacher would have been impressed. And surprised.

Crikey, that almost looks the part. It's light, its a proper rectangle, it's flat and it's not torsionally twisty. And the top is yet to go on. Seen here with the top down on a flat bit of concrete while the glue sets.

The observant among you will note that this is slightly unorthodox in shape. It has a 10cm deep endplate where it will mate to other peoples' modules, but 6cm deep side sills. This is because Bunnings happened to have 6cm x 1cm pieces of wood that were 1.2m long and really straight. So I figured that would work well with minimal effort. After all, you can do what you like in the middle as long as your module (or module set in this case) mates up at the ends with the holes in the right places. I'm not sure the end plates really need to be 10cm deep, but I suppose I should adhere to at least one of the rules. In between my three modules, I am not, instead using 6cm deep endplates cut from the 18mm thick ply. Rebel without a cause. 

Free the Mo

 The local group I've become involved with in Palmy is currently between layouts after they sold their big NZR layout. The current plan is to become involved with the New Zealand Freemo movement in 16.5mm guage and build up a stock of modules. The club will build the 2 return loop ends and the base module will have double track.

This got the brains trust talking about an NZ120 freemo setup. Now I know this has been tried in the past but all the others have been more "modular" in their setup. Having a look overseas the Freemo movement is much more free form and has no side to any module.

I've just uploaded the doc to my google drive, have a read and see what you think. They are based on the European Freemo N rules (as they are in metric, you can't convert anything american as you can't get the correct dimensions on supplies). theres been a fair bit stripped back. And don't forget that anything that you do have can be used as long as there is a Freemo endplate (and associated connections) on the ends ie it doesn't have to be between every board, just at the ends of a scene with anything else going joiining wise internally.