As I seem to do everything in completely illogical order... now that the DX top is finished, it would be appropriate to see how that Atlas Dash 8 chassis will work for me underneath it. First up, let’s sneak a quick look at some pictures floating around inside my camera of a Dash 8 and a DX to see how they compare.
The main difference is the obvious ‘tail’ on the DX main casting, and I suppose the brake cylinders. To earn bonus marks, I’m also going to put the shock absorbers in (over both outboard axles on the DX vs over the center axle of the -8).The first step is to take a knife and carefully shave off the Dash 8 brake cylinders and shock absorbers, carefully avoiding axlebox detail and the soft, fleshy, blood-filled parts of the fingers.
The DX tails are then made from very thin plasticard with a beam of plastic joining them which are then contact glued onto the plastic bogie casting. New brake cylinders were made from spue-ends that come with Microtrains bogies. These are unlikely to give any finescale readers a woody, but they convey the general idea. Another good reason for building layouts with the track in the far distance.
Shock absorbers were added using the same fine wire that was used for the brake hoses on the headstocks. What happens when I eat through the last of that wire and reach the grain of wheat lightbulb they came with, I don’t know. I guess I’ll stop modeling. As with all my creations, you start to overlook the sheer awfulness of it all as soon as some paint is slopped on to hide all the messy bits.
To add to Rhys' previous painting post, a key here is to paint the bits you don't want people to notice darker and the bits you do want them to look at (if any) lighter.
1 comment:
Thats the story, as long as youre happy with what you produce, the finescale modeller within can stay in his armchair.
Glad your eyes are in good nick Mr Bonds!
Post a Comment