Sunday, August 04, 2013


Well, more work today on the MMW module.
First up I tested the side and ends on the top (which I am using as the plan). The side is about 20mm too long. I then have to cut this off the side and reglue it. Cutting the side then broke 2 knife handles, so there was a trip to Mitre 10 to buy a new knife. Finally I got everything glued on. The second side was glued at one end.
I then looked at the tracks exiting the modules. I had cut these short as I had stuffed up. I had to apply track joiners to them. This ripped the rail out of the sleeper webbing. I've looked at it and have decided that I can thread code 55 rail on and solder a PCB fisplate as the last sleeper, which should work OK.

A couple of hours later and I come back to do the final shaping.

This managed to work, though I'll find out tomorrow if its glued.
(The base is placed there simply to help with the shaping, and is not in its final position)

And the title? More than once this afternoon I took timeout to pound a scrap piece of wood with a hammer in shear anger and frustration. Its not relaxing me at all, and I really need a way to let off steam from work stress.
I swear I'm not far off going back wargaming for another 10 years......


0-4-4-0T said...

...and I thought I was doing it rough with over 8 coats of paint to get my ZH's to have sides both smooth and white - still to put bogies, couplers, lettering, and blue end paint on. And as for two-part Fell locomotives...well...16 handrails, 8 filler lids, 4 floors, 8 engine numbers, 8 boiler fillets, and 4+ coats of paint later - I still have two-part locos with no couplers, and areas of unpainted plastic and resin to deal with.
I really must start preparing for the Masterton show.

Rab said...

I came across this today.
Apparently toothpaste can help.

0-4-4-0T said...

Thanks for that link, Rab.

My approach is to rinse the Shapeways FUD models in meths and then let the models dry for a few hours. I then scrub them using and electric toothbrush. The meths turns the oily wax to a dry powder which the toothbrush blows away, cleaning out the finest detail. I then spray the model with a Tamiya lacquer primer from a can. This primer dries quickly, locking any remaining oil within the model.

I would add that the Fell model has provision for adding extra details, such as hand rails and individual engine numbers, which need to be added to do justice to this superb model. Other additions are possible in my case because these are to be static models rather than having mechanisms beneath them.