Testing last night proved fruitful, the first train of light Peco wagons to run over the first module joins derailed in spectacular fashion.
The massive Peco wheel flanges hit even spike on the code 55 track, so Peco wheel and code 55 track don't go together!
So then the search went on to find wagons that better wheel sets, Graham Farish, Tomix, 2mm wheels all worked fine. Amateur Fettler's video is of a Farish wagon speeding down the 3 modules.
The modules got re-arranged into all the possible combinations to test every possible join and we found that if the joins fromed a hollow then this caused the worst problems with high speed derailments, this however could be tuned out with some careful adjustments with a large hammer.
Things we found out during the testing:
1. The laser cut edges of the module ends are tapered and thus the track location notch has a natural hump in it. This can cause the set track to rock in the notch. The 3 modules we had were angled up to the right, the left and a good centred one between them we had humps and hollows. Extra care needs to taken when setting the track in place to ensure it is level across the 2 ends and square to the ends on both sides
But even with the humps and hollows we were still able to run wagons through all the joins.
Hump
Hollow
2. The glue used also caused issues if to much of it oosed up between the sleepers. I think this was probably me just being rough, rushing the job and using too much glue. So use just enough glue to hold the track in place without it bubbling up between the sleepers
A bit much glue
More testing will be carried out with the modules 0-4-4-0T and Amateur Fettler are making up
We also need to test out other base board systems for which the ideas need to come from you out there
In all the testing proved that the system will work, now we just need to start making more modules to add into the mix of things. We hope you can all come up with something that will impress.
2 comments:
I have found that Kato code 80 set track with code 55 rail works very well. The Kato track has mating connectors built in to automatically align the track and lock them together very strongly. Unfortunately the molded on ballast base will foul the system you've designed.
The benefit is though that you can cut the Kato ends to 1 inch long, rip out the stock rail and then remove 1 inch of sleepers from your main track and side it in. Then the only joints are between your modules.
Works well for my little modules, and if you mount the ends with foam tape there is even a few mm of tolerance for different module heights.
"this however could be tuned out with some careful adjustments with a large hammer."
you animals..
This module series is very impressive. Great video.
Quentin
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