So, I'm loaded up with croissants and tea, and the question is 'what to do today'.
The biggest problem I face is which project to I pick.
-Waihao Downs. I have to go back and redo some of the track work, as it appears that the quality control could have been better in places (to the point where the 2mm fine scale wheels fall between the rails). a day of soldering. There's also interest' in getting it fitted into the new Freemo style layout that looks as it it will get its first outing at the Hutt show in October.
-Further to this, building a module using the end plates, and just which one of the choices my fertile brain (it gets feed a lot of bulls**t obviously) has come up with will it be. Possibly depends on what everyone else does.
-Wagons and such. There's a few 1/2 finished or not started, and I need to get some more couplers (either micro trains or the NZR ones I've done, which I'm not not quite sure about as they may need a bit more work). need to spend money here either way.
Hmm, that seems to be about it. Not too bad I guess.
One thing that is holding me back on Paekakariki is a bit of a lack of confidence in approaching the buildings. I must just get through this and start.
Oh, and for your viewing pleasure (and possibly terrifying) here is a link to some 160FS modeling. Its in German, but the pictures speak for themselves.
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4 comments:
That German 160FS is just mind blowing
the trees at the very end of the post were amazing
need to go find this German and interrogate him
Just don't mention the war....
Some very broken Google-English on how the oak tree was made:
The oak, I built some time ago, but have not yet installed on my system. The tree structure consists of soldered 0.2 mm thick copper wire as the wire harness starts at the root and then bifurcates into branches and twigs under twisting. The framework, I then bent into the form of an oak tree, but I previously considered the final height and width of the tree during twisting. As an example of an old oak tree was near my favorite place for my outdoor shots. After the solder preform, I dusted it with sand or dust that accumulates on the floor renovation, very thin after gluing. After drying it with a gray matte acrylic paint removed and then colored with watercolors. to foliage, I use some white filter fabric from the aquarium shop and what I still dark brown with watercolor inking. After drying, I pull the fabric apart very fine and spray it in with diluted white glue. (No spray), the white glue is collected only at the intersections of the fibers, and here are then formed after more than dusting with Woodlands fineturf small leaves center. dry after I cut the Foliage in small pieces and put it on the branches of the blank without sealing it. After the tree then has a pleasing appearance, I spray something very, very thin flash-bonders over the tree so that the permanent Foliage is sufficient support on the branches, and sprinkle again, very, very thin fineturf something about the tree. Below . a few pictures of a birch tree, an elm and two willow trees, where I have, however, the foliage material used by Silhouette oh so: the raised grass fibers 2 mm fibers of Woodlands are applied electrostatically. (From DIY electric flyswatter)
... I think the key is the time and effort put into the armature.
That finescale 1:160 pointwork is incredible. Interesting to see his plaster casting of the bridge structures. Nzfinescale blog has some great tunnel portals done same way.
And what water effects.. via babelfish I read woodland scenics ez water and a temp controlled soldering iron to sculpt the waves, at low heat presumably.
gaaa..
Quentin
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