I've been looking at my 1/2 finished baseboards every day when I pass through the garage. Today I threw caution to the wind and actually finished them. I had previously glued the endplates on and made sure that they were in the right places etc. I only had to cut the sideplates out and glue them in. This is the part that I had dreaded, as I would have to fire up the sawbench. I marked out the sideplates and then cut them to size (and all correct first time !). I tacked them in place and then ran PVA around all the joints on the inside. And the result? well, My old woodwork teacher would not be impressed ('thats a nice set of shelves lad, pity we were making a footstool').
Well, its serviceable, and is 6' by 1' (about 12' by 2' in the next scale up ).
I'm wondering if I should move to plywood, as MDF doesn't really like tacks. The other option is to return to the Cass layouts inverse L-girder style, which would be made in pine, but would be much easier to cut out. I'm almost tempted to revisit this, as it served me well in the past.
11 comments:
I dont know if you'd have any more luck with plywood, to be truthful...why not put some foamboard roadbed down, then tack into that? Plus you could just use th tacks as temporary fastening until the ballast dries to hold it all in place?
The Head Druff has also neglected to mention that said Woodwork Teacher is now living beside DRuffsMum!
I'm off now to show him !!!
Waiting for the marks to be posted!
Have just built a bridging baseboard myself, from cheap MDF, all glued with a few strategic screws.
The main advantage of this construction is the light weight!
Plywood is much lighter, but it only comes in the gold plated version (at least I thought it was gold plated looking at the prices of it).
But worst is that plywood warps and twists just looking at it. And even if you don't look at it.
So you need to put it twice as much pine bracing to keep it straight, which cancels out any weight advantage.
Stick with MDF.
Pre-drill holes with a smaller size drill tham the nails.
Glen.
I've used MDF on top of a pine frame in the past. Softboard on top of the MDF. I used close cell foam from para rubber for road bed in yards and foam road bed for the single line areas. A little on the heavy side but very quiet.
Screws and PVA for the pine, MDF and softboard. Ados F3 for the foam roadbed.
I used double sided tape instead of tacks for the track work.
Worked very well for 1:64 but not sure for nz120.
la lover, that is the first time I've ever heard MDF described as being light.
Some interesting comments here re the various baseboard materials.
From my experience:
i) MDF is definitely not "light" - if it is, it will be of low density construction, and will fall apart with any ingress of moisture - the "Weetbix effect".
ii) Plywood, because of its laminated construction does not tend to warp or twist, unless it is exposed to severe moisture or temperature variations.
A good source of plywood is packing cases used for transporting large industrial items such as electronic, electrical, or mechanical assemblies.
I have also used the "penguin" underfloor insulation foam panels for module tops with success. They hold their shape well without even being mounted on a frame....and ARE light and easy to work with!
Hang on, I"ll qualify my comments on MDF.
When I say MDF I mean a cheap sort that turns up as either packing or cover sheets. Its certainly not top grade board, and isnt robust enough for building furniture!
It is however light as its not overly dense, which is obvious by the fluff left when cutting!
Its ideal for my bridging section
Gfg, whats the size on those underfloor insulation boards, and where can one get some?
RAB, see this site for details and a video of this product.
http://www.expol.com.au/
They are available from Placemakers, Bunnings, Carters, Mitre 10 etc.
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